Journey's End

We had a bit of a lie in on the last day, till 7am in fact!!! One breakfast buffet later we were on our way, back on the boat to Puerto Maldonado.

We got back to the office of the Amazon tour company without incident, but then we were left cooling our heels. Apparently we were due to be picked up at 11, for our 12.45 flight (or something like that), but at 11.20 there was no sign of anyone. I went and found some lady, and she sorted it out. Given that the airport was 15 minutes away, and it took 15 minutes for someone to get to us I'm pretty sure they forgot, so good job I asked. At any rate we were in plenty of time for the flight.

At Lima airport I sadly had to say goodbye to everyone but Claire and Steve, who were also goingto Atlanta, before we sat down to wait for the 6 odd hours until our flight. I had a Subway, and a multi-coloured ice cream, and the time passed relatively quickly, thankfully. We saw boxing legend Don King at the airport, and he was very annoying, always making noise and etc. A woman did ask him if he would buy her dinner though, to which he replied" No, I'm gonna give you some money, so you can buy yourself dinner, because that's how I do it" or something like that, so that was mildly amusing.

The flight was "overnight", 11.55pm-7.05am (or something close to that at any rate), but they had to feed us before and after sleep, so i only go a couple of hours, if that, and I'm not exactly great at sleeping on planes, so I don't even know if I actually slept.

7 hours more waiting at Atlanta ensued. I'm glad I had my kindle, since I just kept getting books, and the time actually flew. I had a pulled pork burrito, and a burger and shake whilst in the airport. I must also say the airport staff were a lot more pleasent this time round.

The flight to JFK was only a couple of hours, so I watched most of a film, and then had another 3 hours to kill before my final flight. They too went fairly briskly, and then it was time to eat before and after another 4 hours of not quite sleep on the 7 ish hour flight into Heathrow.

Mercifully getting through immigration was quick, and there were no closure on the tube on the way to Kings Cross, though it still takes an hour! once I got to Kings Cross I found out that I had lost my return ticket, and had to pay £83 to replace it. Woe is me. Honestly though, I was too tired at that point to care really, enough so that it softened the blow anyway.

So that's it. I arrived into Rotherham safely about 12.30, and my journey was over. I had a fantastic time, and if anyone else is considering going to Peru I would say do it, without reservation!

I have been back through now and added photos from my cameras where appropriate, so enjoy those, and I hope you enjoyed my blog!

Puerto Maldonado, day 2

As I said, a 5.00am wake up was on the cards, but I actually got up at 4.50! The animals and birds were just too loud to sleep once they got going, including birds which sounded like they were drowning, and some sort of wheezing thing that sounded like it was dying outside my window! As I was cleaning my teeth a deer just walked past the window!

Breakfast was a buffet, and pretty good, but we didn't have too long before we had to set off. A 5 minute boat ride took us to the start of our 9km jungle walk. It was cool to start off with, but there were *tons* of Mosquitos! My anti mosquito band which served me so well in Indonesia didn't phase these guys, and somehow they even got through my trousers, and I have about 15 bites on each leg.

As we walked we saw some tarantulas in holes, and our guide Alex coaxed them out for us, a terrestrial turtle that was just eating some berries, a blue butterfly with wings as big as my hand, and some truly massive trees. We also saw a tree whose wood, when shed from the tree, becomes as hard as steel. Alex gave a fallen branch a full on whack with his machete, and it barely scratched it!

We walked about 5km, before reaching a 30m tall canopy tower. Right next to the tower was an old campfire, with butterflies swarming all around it, after the salts, which was really beautiful. The view from the tower was good, but it wasn't so much taller than some of the trees, so you couldn't see forever.

We back tracked a bit, then walked along a wooden walkway for nearly 1km, to the 'lost lagoon'. We then had a bit of a boat trip around the lagoon, and saw some turtles, some pirañas leaping, and one small black caiman. Unfortunately the giant river otters weren't interested in coming out. 

We went back to the observation tower for a little rest, by which time it had heated up to 30 something, and we could hear the calls of a howler monkey, the loudest land animal. It sounded very wired, but was super intimidating; I sure wouldn't want to meet what was making that sound if I didn't know it was a monkey! We also found a golden orb spider on a web, which was huge, pretty, and poisonous apparently.

We walked a little further, then reached a swamp with a longboat, where we all took turns to paddle. On the boat ride we saw macaws, and some big turkey like bird which could fly and swim, and some people saw a snake, but I did not, as I was paddling most of the time. The scenery was lovely though, even if the sun was baking us!

From the end of the boat ride we had one more kilometre to walk, but that was uneventful, and we got the boat for our ride back to the lodge.

There was an optional tour to the botanical gardens in the afternoon, but what with the 5am start, and 8 hour trip we'd already done I was too tired to go, so had a nap in preparation for 44 hours of travel tomorrow, after a swim to cool down in the swimming pool. Katie went on the walk though, and filled me in. There was a huge tarantula just sitting about, a pet bird (the turkey type one) which followed the group around and begged to be petter, and a tame monkey, as well as lots of fruit and medicinal plants. It sounded pretty cool, and I'm a little sad I didn't go, but I needed a rest too.

We had tea, and then chilled out together for a couple of hours after, as it was our last night together :(

Hard wood

A frog with fake eyes on it's legs

You can just see a tarantula's leg there

A lake type thing, with a white heron

Me with a terrestrial turtle

The biggest tree I have ever seen

The place where the butterflies hang out

Me up a canopy tower

Me wielding a machete. I didn't go on to murder anyone in Rotherham

A Golden Orb spider

The snakeskin we spotted was awesome. Kinda wish I had swiped it now! (probably not an acceptable thing to do though...)

A macaw lurking in a tree

Me rowing down the Amazon... and yes, I have always wanted to say that!

Puerto Maldonado

II woke up around 5.30 and couldn't get back to sleep. Curse early mornings!

I went for a hotel breakfast around 7.30, then hung around for a while, until an appointment I had made yesterday to have breakfast at an excellent place we had been for lunch, Green's organic bar. I had a second breakfast of granola with fresh banana and strawberry, and actual milk!

Not everyone is going to the jungle; only Tom, Alison, Steve, Claire, Katie and I are left now.

We got back to the hotel around 9.45, as our transfer was supposed to be at 10.30 for an 11.30ish flight. Seemed a bit tight, but we trusted Leo. Our transfer actually went around 10.10, which was lucky: we got to the airport around 10.40, for an 11.05 boarding time! 

We got to check in in the business class line, and through security the same way, making it with a couple of minutes to spare! Talk about stressful. Of course they then changed the gate, and boarding wasn't until about 11.45, so we didn't actually need to hurry. 

Once we actually got on the plane there were people in mine and Katie's seats, with tickets identical to ours. We had to stand around for a while, but luckily the plane wasn't very full, and we got to just take other seats. We then sat around for an hour while we waited for a chance to take off. All in all the worst flight ever!

Once we got in the air it only took us 30 minutes to reach our destination, pretty silly given we were an hour and a half late . The view from the window was pretty crazy though, trees stretched from horizon to horizon, interspersed with red rivers, and to think this is only a drop in the ocean of the whole rainforest!

When we landed it was scorching (37, per the forecast), and a man called Luis had a transfer for us to a place we could store our big bags in what I can only describe as a jungle bus. Those of us who wanted had a chance to change into shorts, and another short ride had us on the shore of the river, where I saw the biggest beetle I have ever seen, at least 2.5 inches long!

The river trip took about 1 hour 20 minutes, and there was a lot of wood floating in the river which we had to avoid. There wasn't too much in the way of wildlife, though a flock of parrots (or something) did shadow us for a short while, and I also saw a very high flying bird which was likely a harpy eagle or hawk of some kind.

The lodges are exactly what I expected funnily enough, thatched roofs, covered walkways and everything. We had a buffet lunch, then we got a boat across to monkey island. We walked through the jungle for about an hour, and saw 4 different kinds of monkey, including black spider monkeys which were pretty big! We fed bananas to them, and Tom got a great video of one yanking Steve's head! We also saw plenty of insects, including some butterflies with wings as big as my hands.

We boated back to the lodge again for a too soon tea, before which Katie and I played some table tennis. Despite claiming she wasn't very good, she was pretty good, and I managed to win, but only very narrowly. We then had a night boat ride along the river, looking for caimen (like crocodiles with thin snouts). We found some, and when the lights were shone on them their eyes shone like terminator, and you could spot them from a way off.

We went to bed upon getting back, as tomorrow wake up time is 5am!

 The most powerful river in the world (and by that I mean discharge. The length is debatable)

It was sunny

My little lodge

A spider of some kind

A black spider monkey

Sun-something  (can't remember if it was set or rise)

Another sun something

Cusco, day 3

I had a lie in until 8.30 today! The morning was devoted to catching up with my blog, sorting my luggage, and generally relaxing after the trek.

I went for lunch around midday, and then to some markets to shop for souvenirs. I got plenty for other people, as well as a poncho and jumper for myself. It is a good job I'm done shopping, as I don't have a lot of space left in my bag. There were a lot of nice markets, so the shopping took up most of the afternoon.

We all went out for a meal in the evening, as some people are going home tomorrow. We had a Pisco Sour making lesson, and I had a Thai salad, which was very nice.

All in all not a lot happened today, but I go to the jungle tomorrow, so I had to rest up! I'm not sure if the lodge will have wifi, so my next, and final update may be in a couple of days time. Bring on the giant otters and piranha fishing!

Inka trail, day 4, and Machu Picchu

I dealt surprisingly well with getting up at 3.30, especially given the rain starting up again in the night. That could have something to do with the fact that we didn't get a wake up call, and I didn't realise the time till 3.50, but whatever.

Thankfully the rain must've been weak, as my tent didn't let any in, but it was a bit of mad rush to dress, and pack my stuff in 10 minutes instead of 30. I ate a fair amount for breakfast (1 and a half pancakes, and 4 slices of toast), but my metabolism appears to have gone into overdrive, as I was still hungry. There was no time for anything else though, and we left our campsite around 4.30. 

We had a quick stop to brush our teeth before getting to the control point, which doesn't open till 5.30. We got there pretty early, so some of us got seats, and everyone was under cover. The people who got there later didn't all get that luxury, so we were pretty lucky. 

While we waited, our once taciturn guide Victor amused us with terrible jokes. He was pretty surly the first couple of days, and really cheery the last couple. I swear he has split personality disorder or something, but whatever the reason new Victor is a lot better!

We got going just after 5.30, the groups got to leave in the order they arrived luckily for us, but we still had 5km to cover to arrive at Machu Picchu. The way was probably the easiest we have had it for the majority of the time, with gentle undulations in the path and barely any stairs. Basically the whole time we were right on the edge of cliffs, and the clouds weren't as low, so we got some good views.

Right before Inti Punku (the sun gate) there was the steepest flight of stairs I have ever seen. I walked up it fine, because of youth and etc, but some people had to crawl up, it was pretty extreme! My hunger persisted too, I had 2 packets of biscuits and an apple along the way.

The sun gate was actually quite underwhelming for me, but only because of my unrealistic expectations. I had in mind a 50m tall, carved gateway, but the reality was very similar to all the other sun temples we have seen; a one story building with windows to let in the sun perfectly at equinoxes and solstices.

What was not underwhelming however was the view of Machu Picchu! You see plenty of photographs, but as is so often the case they can't really do it justice. I took plenty of photos anyway though, and of course will upload them when I get home. The day was overcast, but mercifully clear, so we got the full impact of the view.

From the sun gate it was about an hour walk to get to Machu Picchu itsself, with views across the valley to the ruins for much of the time. With the spectacular mountain behind it and the intricacy of the place every different angle along the way looked awesome.

Once we got there we had a quick break to use real toilets (the ones on the trail were dire), and to have a little snack (but I didn't buy anything, due to it being heinously expensive), then we went in again. I got another passport stamp at the entrance.

Victor stayed with us and gave us the tour round Machu Picchu, which took around 2 and a half hours, and packed in loads of info. We saw a couple of temples (a triple temple, one for the sun god, with water on the side to worship the water god, and a cave underneath for  the earth god, plus a condor temple), and  the various districts of the settlement. 

There was a place for the Inka to stay, and rooms for 'pilgrims', or visiting nobles, as well as servants quarters, then there were storerooms, rooms for artisans, and rooms for record keeping. 

There was very little military presence though, it was a religious place to which the pilgrims, and Inka would come to venerate the mountains around, whom they regarded as gods, as well as the usual omnipotent deities (the sun, water and earth gods Inti, Qucha Mama and Pacha Mama). My favorite way they did this was when they carved natural stones into the shape of the mountains directly ahead.

The reason Machu Picchu was abandoned, despite never being discovered by the Spanish was that, despite a lot of terraces, the place could only generate around 25-30% of the food required to feed it's inhabitants, with the rest being provided by trade, so they literally had no choice but to leave.

Victor had a little information pack with pictures to help explain things, and the best ones for me were of how overgrown the place had become prior to discovery (it was actually first discovered by a farmer, but he kept it secret and used the terraces). Even today it is estimated that 10% is still covered by foliage.

The day was pretty temperate and overcast, though the sun did come out for half an hour or so. As soon as it did I put sun cream on, but the sun obviously was strong enough through the clouds, as I got sun burnt again.

After the tour we spent a little more time exploring, then took the bus down to Machu Picchu town. Our train wasn't till 7, and we arrived about 1.30 or 2, so we had some time to kill, but we managed to spin out lunch for a good couple of hours. I ordered a family sized pizza, and the guy's eyes bulged, but I ate the whole thing, plus 3 glasses of orange juice. 

We then went to a cafe for a good hour, where I had a 'cut coffee' (still no idea why it is different from regular coffee), and discovered that I had eaten and drunk too much, and felt really sick. Oops

Everyone who'd done the Inka trail was pretty tired by the time the train came round, so we pretty much just dozed until getting back to the hotel, around 11, where I collapsed into bed and went to sleep.

Our first view of Machu Picchu

Me, looking a bit tired

Closer

Our group: we all made it!

Me again, doing the Vitruvian Man

Our bipolar guide, Victor

Mor Machu Picchu views

 I'm getting higher!

Yet more views

I present the vista expertly

All that jumping is really tiring!

Luckily, my family sized pizza gave me energy

Inka trail, day 3

The night was pretty miserable. It rained throughout, and the tents aren't 100% waterproof. As such much of my stuff got soaked, including half of my sleeping bag and mattress. I wasn't even the worst off though, both Katie and Claire and Steve got their mattresses completely soaked, along with a lot of their stuff.

We were all glad of our warm breakfast in the dry dining tent, but not so glad to get going again in the rain. Most people went for ponchos, but I trusted in my cargo pants and new 'North Face' coat, and they did a pretty good job to be fair. The waterproof cover from my big rucksack, which I adapted with electrical tape to fit my small rucksack didn't hold up as well however, and a lot of the stuff in there got wet. Thankfully my passport only got ever so slightly damp!

We only had 300m to climb to the final pass, so the uphill today was very gentle compared with what we have been used to, but on the other hand we had approximately 3800 steps to climb down. Still at only 10km this is the shortest full day, and if it weren't for the rain it would've been pretty easy.

Thankfully the rain eased off towards to end of the morning, and the day warmed up too, so things weren't as bad as they could've been. Still the stairways had basically turned into waterfalls in a lot of places.

We went through some rain forest and cloud forest today, and generally it was a lot greener than the previous 2 days. A lot cloudier and rainier as well, so we couldn't really see far at all. Still I guess that is the authentic cloud/rain forest experience; the clue is in the names.

On the way to our campsite (Wanay Wayna, I remembered a name!) we passed one more archeological site (whose name I can't remember), which was basically a place to experiment with different crop at different altitudes. The place was *huge* with probably approaching 50 terraces, each around 3 meters tall and wide. Looking up from near the bottom was amazing!

It wasn't much further to our final campsite, and we indulged in lunch before walking a few minutes to look at another, even more amazing Inka ruin (called Wanay Wanya, the same as our campsite). Again terraces were involved, as these were the only way to be able to farm enough food to feed a mountain settlement, but this was a resting place for the Inkas on their way to Machu Picchu. Below there was a small town for servants, and there was also a temple.

Only Katie and I were interested in exploring from our group, and because of the rain (which had just about stopped by this point) no other groups had even bothered coming along, so we had the whole place to ourselves (aside from the llamas) to explore, which was pretty amazing, given that this was definitely the second best ruin, behind Machu Picchu.

We went back after an hour or so, and had a little time to relax before afternoon tea (popcorn, and cheese pastry things). We then just sat in the food tent chatting for the hour until tea. 

Owen told us about some of his fascinating life, he has been to 97 countries, including 3 years solid travelling, starting from New Zealand, going via Australia and South East Asia before living in India for some months, then through war torn Afghanistan and Iran (where he nearly couldn't get out of!),  before seeing Europe.

Straight after tea it was an early night, since our wake up time in the morning was 3.30am. Urgh.

I have seen better weather than today

A cave we had to walk through

One of the many hard-named archeological sites

In some places, the stairs were more like a river

That's why they call it a cloud forest

The place they experimented with different crops at different altitudes. Another hard name

Me at the place above

The river which Aquas Calientes sits on

Lots of stairs

More terraces

And more again. Still the same place

Me trying to fly

 Me succeeding at flight

Everyone bar Steve at Wanay Wayna

And one with no people, for dad

Looking down to the servant quarters

They didnt have a bad view out of the window

And the Inkas really did love those terraces